Bac Ha Market: a wonderful mix of Trade, Culture and Unique Dish

A tour to Sapa in Lao Cai Province can never be complete without stopping by and experiencing the Sunday Market in Bac Ha. A former French hill station, Sapa is known across Vietnam for its all-year-round temperate climate, extravagant landscapes and colorful costumes of the many ethnic groups that settle in the area. But as anyone who have been here could claim, the rugged Bac Ha market should never be missed. 100 km from Sapa, it has both been a famous trading center and a meeting place for locals every Sunday.

The scenario in this part of the province during this particular day of the week makes it a perfect place for tourists to gain a snapshot into the lives of the different ethnic groups in the north of Vietnam. The first impression of the place would never exclude the riot of colors and activities of the H'mong people. The main goods are agricultural products, everyday farming implements, food, cattle, clothes and the sweet-smelling maize (corn) wine. But perhaps nothing can prepare you for something that is truly unique and is sure to give any tourist and unforgettable experience. Coming to Bac Ha market, one can seldom miss having a bowl or two of “Thang Co”, a traditional cuisine of the H’Mong ethnic people made of something you would never imagine - - - a horse.

These bubbling pots of blood porridge is sure to bring any discern diner to some moment of surprise and a lot of hesitation. Though some may be very hard to convince on trying, the more adventurous diners could not resist the tempting aroma of this thick, soupy stew. And indeed, Thang Co is full of flavors. Its preparation may be simple, but a bit lengthy. In order to produce a tasty pot of Thang Co, experience is necessary. After being slaughtered, the horse is divided into smaller cuts of meat and bones. The bones are separated and boiled for stock while the meat is marinated in a mixture of salt, black cardamom, anise, cinnamon and grilled địa điền before being placed in a big pan and fried. Water is then added to the pan and simmered for several hours. But perhaps the manner of enjoying the dish - - - circled in groups, laughing, talking, while drinking maize wine adds more flavor to the meal. For that, the dish is also considered a strong cultural asset that draws people closer. When the dish is enjoyed by a family, the usual accompaniment is cơm nắm (rice balls) and mèn mén (steamed maize powder).

The dish was already enjoyed by the H’mong some 200 years ago when they settled down in the district. Up to this day, the specialty of the ethnic mountainous people is said to be the most delicious at Bac Ha. In the old days, Thang Co was only made with horse meat. Today, several varieties are prepared including buffalo meat, goat or pork.

The mix of attractions, friendly atmosphere, the intricate costumes, but most importantly, all the wonderful moments and flavors a bowl of Thang Co bring is among the many reasons why villagers would walk several hours for the weekly opportunity to come to Bac Ha. Indeed an excitingly unique meal - - - if you dare. The Bac Ha Market is open every Sunday in Bac Ha District, Lao Cai Province, 354 kilometers from Hanoi. If you prefer to travel alone, a train or bus from Hanoi will take you to Lao Cai. From there, catch a bus for a two and a half hour trip to Bac Ha District. But when you set foot Bac Ha, the adventure is sure worth the trip.